Log #38 – George Town-Stocking Island, Great Exuma, Bahamas December 21, 2007 – January 2, 2008

We have been having such a wonderful time here that it is hard to isolate events so this log won’t be too long – not that I EVER run on and on!!!! (Sorry, Bruce!)

We woke up Friday, December 21 to a beautiful sunrise and listened to the VHF not realizing that this would soon become our lifeline and the 8:00 am broadcast would become a not-to-be-missed feature. As soon as we introduced ourselves as newcomers to the harbor, Jan and Terri from “Kiva” called us and reminded us that we had met last year at the Seven Seas Sailing Association Gam in Florida. We met them the next day and had a great time off and on paling around with them. On Friday we took the dinghy into town to check out George Town. We found “Exuma Market” – a grocery store along the lines of your corner store in a rural area. We did find another grocery store “Shop Rite” about ½ mile away that is even smaller, but between the two of them, you can usually come close to finding what you are looking for. We won’t discuss price. All meat is frozen and all vegetables, along with everything else, are shipped in and at least double what you would pay in the states. The vegetables were either picked green or are overripe with the exception of plantains and yucca. We are becoming quite good at cooking both of those!

There is also a “straw” market meaning they sell local items as well as imported t-shirts etc. There is a store called “Top to Bottom” which sells everything except food and is all of 12’ x 20’. The aisles are so crowded only one person can be in any one aisle at a time. There are a couple of eating places – some would qualify as restaurants, others not. We found we like one non-restaurant “locals” place where you stop in about 11:30 and give them your order. Then about 12:30 your meal will be ready. If you wait much longer than that they’ll run out of food. The food there is very good, especially the curry. The other place we liked is over by the “Shop Rite” and is called “Eddie’s Edgewater Café”. You walk through a “locals” bar that some cruisers have called “seedy” to a table-cloth restaurant in the back. While they do have a menu, we have never found it to be very truthful. You are better off just asking what’s available tonight. We found they had the best conch fritters in the area (when they have them)! In fact, the first week we were here I ate so much conch – fritters, fried, cracked, salad, etc. that I actually broke out in hives! I went off conch for 3 days and can now eat it again – in moderation! The Post Office is in the Government building, but it is hit or miss as to whether or not it will be open. Then the mail goes out and comes in on the mail boat. I sent a bunch of birthday cards shortly after we got here so if you have a birthday in December or January, someday you’ll get a card with a Bahamas stamp!

We did find a liquor store to supplement our wine stock, and then there is Mom’s bakery. Mom bakes at home, wherever that is, and comes in a van on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. You’re never sure what she’ll have, but it’s always good. While, as expected, it is pricy, everything is sold with a blessing and a hug. You do have to plan on spending at least 15-20 minutes “chatting” with Mom each time you go. Don’t try to rush it, this is the Bahamas after all!

There are few telephones here. Most communications are done on the VHF radio and you leave your radio on all day. It’s a party line! Don’t say anything you don’t want everyone to hear! You can chat with other cruisers, call a taxi, make restaurant reservations (that’s a joke – there aren’t reservations!) get the morning news (cruiser’s news), weather (cruiser’s weather – for real weather we listen to Chris Parker on the SSB who broadcasts from the states) check if St. Francis resort is showing the Giants game and what time, and keep track of your crew when they go out in the dinghy. (Taking the “hand held” with you is more important than a cell phone here!)

Tim arrived pretty close to schedule on Saturday, 12/22 and had only minor problems with customs as he couldn’t tell them where we were anchored. We had waved to him as he got off the plane so he knew we were outside but they wouldn’t let him ask us. They did finally let him into the country. PJ arrived the next day and also had some trouble as he was bringing in the new VHF radio. Oh – one more piece of electronics failed on the 21^st. We were able to get hold of PJ who ran to West Marine and bought us a new one to bring over with him. He told customs that it was replacement parts and they wanted to see the cruising permit. He patiently explained that he had just arrived on the plane hence didn’t have a cruising permit but we were outside with the one for our boat if they wanted to let him come out and get us. They finally threw in the towel and let him into the country. We have since learned to email a copy of the cruising permit to anyone coming over to visit!

On Monday, 12/24 we moved the boat over to Volley Ball Beach and Jim and the boys installed the new radio. This required a trip up the mast and boy, was I glad the PJ and Tim were here to crank Jim up! The next thing to break was the 12-volt plug in the cockpit. Again, I was really glad the boys were here as PJ got the honor of going back into the cubby-hole! PJ found time to do his push-ups on the deck and Tim did work he had brought with him from San Francisco. After all that we hiked around Volley Ball beach – Tim played one game but said it was too tame for him – PJ was sidelined as he had rolled his ankle a few days before, found “Chat and Chill” the bar there, and headed back to the boat at sunset.

On Christmas day all the cruisers got together for a pot-luck dinner. I really have to admire Kathy on Whistling Winds for her organization. She got everyone (about 170 people) signed up with what they were making then went shopping for turkeys and hams. I took a pecan pie and a pumpkin pie and baked one of the hams. You took all your own dishes and flatware and whatever you wanted to drink. The food was great and the boys stuffed themselves. Jim rescued two extra pieces of my pumpkin pie so the boys could have it for breakfast the next day.

After the party we moved the boat back over to George Town to be in place for Junkanoo. Junkanoo is a celebration by the locals for Boxing Day. I found out that they are not referring to fisticuffs but rather a tradition that started back when most of the islands were plantations. It seems that the plantation owners, who had their gifts shipped in by boat, would give the slaves the boxes (usually wooden and quite nice) from their gifts on the day after Christmas. The slaves were allowed to celebrate from 3 am to 8 am on Boxing Day. So, now, the Junkanoo parade begins at 3 am on Boxing Day. We had adopted Luther, Taxi 29, as “our” cab driver when we first got here and had to go to the airport to pick up Tim. He now does all our “taxiing” for us. He is the current patriarch of the “Rolle” family – the most prominent family on the islands descended from the original slaves. Seems that when the slaves were liberated they adopted their master’s name and the Rolles had the largest number of slaves. Anyway, his extensive family had an entry in the parade. The photo is of the “Musical Youths”, Luther’s family parade with Jim (“Growing Old Disgracefully”), PJ and Tim (Christmas party hat). While we thought Luther’s family’s parade was the best, they didn’t win. Luther said he thought there were some problems with the judging. There are also pictures of PJ and Tim at the parade. While they both admitted they had seen 3 am many of times, always before they had been up until, never as a wake-up!

The 27^th was a play day and after once again moving the boat across the harbor, we went body surfing in Exuma Sound. Well, the guys did. I sat on the beach and soaked up the rays.

St. Francis, the local resort in George Town, closed down and let the cruisers have their New Year’s Eve party there. There was food supplied by the cruisers and music to dance to. We all went and welcomed in the New Year.

Tim headed back to San Francisco on Jan. 1 and PJ left for New York on Jan. 2. They have put in a request for Cartagena, Columbia for next Christmas. Hum….

Regards,

Roxanne, Jim, Shadow

Dawn Dancer

roxanne@farrell.fm (no pictures please)